Farmhouse Cheddar and Stilton Terrine
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Walnuts, dried cherries, and sage are sprinkled between layers of Sherry-flavored cheddar and pungent Stilton. It's best to slice the apples and pears (which are served with the terrine) just before plating to prevent browning.
- Nonstick vegetable oil spray
- 1 pound farmhouse cheddar cheese or sharp white cheddar cheese, coarsely grated
- 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature, divided
- 8 ounces Stilton or other blue cheese
- 1 1/2 cups walnuts, toasted, chopped, plus additional walnut halves for garnish
- 6 tablespoons dried cherries, coarsely chopped
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage plus sprigs for garnish
- 3 Granny Smith apples, halved, cored, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
- 3 Bosc pears, halved, cored, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
- 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
Line long sides and bottom of 8 1/2x4 1/2x2 1/2-inch loaf pan with parchment paper, leaving 2-inch overhang on both long sides of pan. Spray parchment and short sides of pan with nonstick spray. Place cheddar, 4 tablespoons butter, and Sherry in large bowl. Using electric mixer, beat on medium speed until blended and smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl, about 3 minutes. Place Stilton and remaining 2 tablespoons butter in medium bowl. Using clean beaters, beat until blended and smooth, stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of bowl, 2 to 3 minutes. Mix 1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts, dried cherries, and chopped sage in small bowl.
Spoon half of cheddar mixture (about 1 1/3 cups) into prepared pan, spreading in even layer. Sprinkle half of walnut mixture (about 1 cup) over in even layer; press gently to adhere. Spoon Stilton mixture in dollops over nut mixture; spread in even layer. Sprinkle remaining walnut mixture over; press gently to adhere. Spoon remaining cheddar mixture in dollops over nut mixture; smooth top. Fold parchment overhang down over outside of pan. Place plastic wrap directly onto cheese; press to compact terrine. Chill at least 4 hours. DO AHEAD Can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled.
Let terrine stand at room temperature 1 hour before serving. Discard plastic wrap. Run knife across short end of pan to loosen terrine from pan. Place plate atop terrine; invert onto plate. Peel off parchment. Use small metal spatula to smooth surface of terrine. Garnish with walnut halves and sage sprigs.
Toss apple and pear slices with lemon juice in large bowl. Arrange fruit around terrine. Serve with water crackers.
Nutritional ContentOne serving contains the following: Calories (kcal) 319.8 %Calories from Fat 68.9 Fat (g) 24.5 Saturated Fat (g) 11.0 Cholesterol (mg) 51.0 Carbohydrates (g) 13.1 Dietary Fiber (g) 3.3 Total Sugars (g) 7.8t Net Carbs (g) 9.8t Protein (g) 12.8Reviews Section
Help finalizing a holiday party menu
We are having a holiday party. Heavy appetizers and drinks. All finger food. Probably about 25-30 people. Full range of dietary issues, including varying degrees of kosher, vegetarians, a celiac vegetarian, and a couple of vegans. Most people have adventurous palates, though there is one very picky eater coming.
I have a nicely equipped kitchen but it is small, and I hate doing prep mid-party. If I take something out of the oven, I don't want to do much more than transfer to a plate and hit off with salt. I will only fuss around with garnishes if I can do it all before guests arrive.
Here's what I've got so far. I feel like it is missing something.
bacon wrapped dates
warm fennel and Parmesan dip (Martha Stewart recipe), served with bread
Smashed mini potatoes, served with a bowl of garlic pimenton aioli for dipping
Kabocha squash and chestnut soup shooters. This might be a disaster and violates my rule against mid-party work, but I bought a gabillion shot glasses at Ikea because they were stupid cheap so I am going to give it a shot. I'm going to keep the soup warm in a crockpot and pour using a thin spouted kettle.
Farmhouse cheddar and stilton terrine (bon appetit recipe) which I'll serve with crackers, fruit, nuts, etc.
Marinated roasted vegetables that will hold up well at room temp. carrots and cauliflower, definitely. my grocery store carries multiple colors of both. maybe some other vegetable but I haven't figured out what. some kind of hummus or bean dip with them. Maybe a second dip.
Beet/apple/onion tart cut into bite size squares. Will use pepperidge farm puff pastry so it will be vegan friendly.
Roast beef crostini with onion jam.
Assortment of Christmas cookies. At least one will be vegan and celiac friendly
I feel like it is too light on meat, and I'm pretty sure the picky eater is only going to eat the potatoes, and maybe the crostini without the jam. The vegans can eat the potatoes, the veggies and bean dip, fruit, and the beet tart. The celiac vegetarian can eat the potatoes and soup, the fennel dip with vegetables, the veggies and bean dip, and the terrine with fruit.
Would you add anything else? I have thought about something using home cured gravlax, but I am concerned that it will get gross at room temp real fast. It also doesn't solve my problem of having something for the picky eater.
Book Club: DiBruno Bros. House of Cheese – Review and Giveaway!
The Book: I have a special book review for you today, one that involves a lot of cheese, an anniversary, and an awesome giveaway (scroll down for details). Although I’m not from Philly, I’m thrilled to be helping Philly-institution DiBruno Bros. celebrate their 75th anniversary as well as their first book, DiBruno Bros. House of Cheese: A Guide to Wedges, Recipes, and Pairings. DiBruno Bros. is a gourmet market specializing in high-end cheeses and cured meats, as well as other specialty food products. Family owned and operated, its the kind of gourmet culinary institution that’s worth supporting and preserving. Their only brick and mortar locations are in Philadelphia, but the rest of us can enjoy their delicious products by purchasing them through their online store.
Last year, DiBruno Bros. released their first book, House of Cheese, in partnership with blogger Tenaya Darlington, author of Madame Fromage. The bulk of the book is composed of descriptions of various cheeses, separated into 10 categories, from “Free Spirits” to “Pierced Punks.” The descriptions of each cheese are quirky and engaging – I’ve never heard cheese described with such personality and detail! – and each includes a series of food and drink pairings for that particular cheese. Tenaya writes with a subtle sense of humor that had me cracking a smile at descriptions like “full of wild, fatty-licious stink – prepare yourself for the smell of boiled peanuts, pick-up truck exhaust, and bare feet [Cato Corner Farm’s Hooligan]” and “wrapped in walnut leaves and aged in mountain caves, it’s the sort of cheese you want everyone to see that you’re eating [Foja de Noce].” Interspersed throughout the descriptions are notes and anecdotes about making, serving, and eating cheese, cheese board suggestions, and simple recipes for appetizers to serve with your cheese. The themed cheese boards with pairings will ensure that you really impress your guests at your next party – I, for one, will be trying the “fireside party” board when the weather turns colder, which includes Truffle Tremor paired with roasted chestnuts and Stilton paired with dark chocolate. Yum. All told, the book is both pleasantly engaging and very informative, covering a much broader range of cheeses than I expected to find. The next time I step up to the cheese counter, I’ll certainly have done my research about what I really want to try.
The Food: While there’s only a handful of recipes included in House of Cheese (the focus is more on the cheese descriptions and pairings), I don’t like publishing book reviews without at least giving you a taste of whatever recipes there are, so I decided to make the Goat Cheese Terrine with Fig Jam and Pesto. Like most of the recipes in the book, it’s very simple to pull together – it only took me about 10 minutes to whip up – and the results are really lovely. I’m not sure I would have naturally come up with the combination of pesto and fig jam, but the sweet and herbal flavors are tied together well by the layer of goat cheese in between. This is the kind of appetizer that disappears in no time at a party, the sort of thing that draws everyone into the same room to stand around the table and nibble on cheese-covered crackers and chat. It takes a little bit of patience to get the cheese to spread out evenly, but that’s the only part that is even remotely tricky. Even my least culinary friends could handle this one.
Congratulations to Victoria C on winning this giveaway! Enjoy your goodies :-)
The Giveaway: I’m not the only one who gets a great new cookbook and a gorgeous cheese gift basket – one lucky reader will get one, too! The gift basket includes a few different cheeses, some tasty snacks to serve with your cheese (like addictive Black Lava Cashews), and a $25 gift card to DiBruno Bros. for you to try something new. To enter the giveaway, leave a comment below letting me know a) what your favorite kind of cheese is, and b) what your favorite cheese-centric recipe is. If you don’t win here, keep your eyes on Dine and Dish, All Day I Dream About Food, and Kitchen Confidante in the coming weeks for more chances to win. By entering the giveaway, you are agreeing to the official rules as listed below:
- No purchase necessary
- Void where prohibited
- One entry per household, and only entries answering the question above will be considered!
- The sponsor of this giveaway is DiBruno Bros.
- The estimated retail value of the book and gift basket is $150
- The odds of winning will depend on the number of entries received
- This contest is only open to U.S. Citizens over the age of 18
- The contest will open today, July 23rd, 2014 at posting time, and will close at 11PM EST on Wednesday, July 30th, 2014
- One winner will be selected randomly and contacted via email (so please leave an accurate email address!). If I do not hear from the winner within 48 hours, the winner forfeits their prize and an alternate winner will be chosen.
- I will post the winner here by Friday, August 8th, 2014
Recipe Shortlist: Manchego and Marcona Almond Pesto Pickled Feta with Olives and Strawberries Baked Brie with Pears and Apricots Semolina Crackers with Sea Salt Lavender Mustard Zeke’s Bacon Maple Grilled Cheese Tomato and Pancetta Strata
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DiBruno Bros. sent me a copy of House as Cheese, as well as a 75th anniversary gift basket free of charge for this post. I was not otherwise compensated, and all opinions are my own.
Goat Cheese Terrine with Fig Jam and Pesto
Recipe reprinted from DiBruno Bros. House of Cheese courtesy of DiBruno Bros. and Running Press. Serves 8-12 as an appetizer.
THERE'S MURDER ON THE MENU
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The present series of Pie in the Sky is rumoured to be the last. Hopefully not, as it's not only an engaging programme about a restaurant owner/chef who doubles as a detective, but it also one of the most up- to-date and informative programmes about food on television.
It's not very accurate in the shape of its hero, Detective Inspector Henry Crabbe, played by Richard Griffiths, who is a man of some girth (or are they air pillows?). These days you don't find chefs built on these lines, the exception being the spherical New Orleans Cajun cook, Paul Prudhomme.
The modern chef tends to be lean, even athletic. Some are apparently fuelled by nervous tension, like the charismatic Marco Pierre White or Raymond Blanc. Others are brutally fit such as the health-conscious Anton Mosimann who circles Hyde Park in the manner of a marathon runner or the Savoy's fit Anton Edelmann who runs for an hour in the morning and plays squash every evening. The Chelsea Hotel's Bruno Loubet has been seen stroking a racing four on the boat-race course at Hammersmith.
The sight of Richard Griffiths, huffing and puffing in pursuit of villains, stretches credulity to breaking point. But seeing him put food to his mouth, stirring a sauce with skill, picking over fresh produce with a critical eye, that's acting of a high order.
To food-lovers, the interest in the series lies not only in the handling of restaurant food (see box for Crabbe's typical menu) but also in the subplots. Each episode of Pie in the Sky airs a food issue of the sort that faces every restaurant every day. Some are lighthearted such as tonight's "Cutting the Mustard" episode, others are more controversial.
The first programme ("Squashed Tomato") of this new series dealt with EC interference in our horticulture. It focused on a part-time vegetable grower who discovers it is illegal to sell his rare varieties of tomatoes, the colourful and tasty Green Zebra, Scotland Yellow and Brandywine. This is not fiction these are among hundreds of varieties preserved in the seed "library" at the Henry Doubleday Research Station, Ryton, near Coventry.
When the snooping lady inspector from the fictional ministry of Food and Agriculture (Ms Smiley) catches our hero serving a multi-coloured tomato salad (with olive oil, rocket and shavings of Parmesan), Crabbe and the gardener are carpeted. Don't they realise, says the unsmiling Ms Smiley, that under an EC directive of 1970 every variety grown has to be registered - and at an initial cost of pounds 2,000, and thereafter pounds 700 a year. It's OK if you buy proprietary seeds from the big suppliers, they've paid the registration fee.
But, says our indignant hero, this discriminates against small growers. "It's not my problem," says the insensitive (though evidently not uncultured) Ms Smiley, echoing Gertrude Stein: "A tomato is a tomato is a tomato."
In one stirring episode Henry Crabbe had a tussle with an Environmental Health Officer (EHO) who determined that Crabbe should use intensively- farmed, ministry-approved factory eggs rather than fresh eggs from his free-range hens in the garden. (Happy ending - the bureaucratic EHO is replaced by one of gourmet inclinations).
In another episode Crabbe takes up the cudgel against machine-made bread. He champions a woman baking hand-crafted country bread who is threatened by a new bread factory in town. Crabbe sees off the competition, only to find that the woman succumbs to the same methods.
Pie in the Sky was conceived and written by Andrew Payne, a veteran writer who has contributed scripts to Lovejoy, Minder and Shoestring. This idea, of a Falstaffian detective-constable, was entirely his own. "I love the idea of a reluctant hero," says Andrew Payne. "He's supposed to be solving horrendous crimes, but his mind is really on whether he could marinate the beef in Guinness or red wine."
But, Andrew Payne hopes, there's more to Pie in the Sky than Crabbe's gourmandising. Cooking is a metaphor for his attitude to police work. "The kitchen sets the scene, reflects his integrity in searching out good, honest ingredients. But recipes are clear-cut and easier to control than crime of course." The inspiration for Pie in the Sky was provided by Andrew Payne's partner, food writer Lindsey Bareham, author of the much-lauded In Praise of the Potato. Travelling with her, when she was reviewing restaurants provided many ideas, such as the strange case of a restaurant being wrecked not by a bad review but by a good one.
"After a rave review, this restaurant was inundated," says Andrew Payne. "But the reviewer had insulted some of the locals at the bar in print. They were offended and didn't come back."
Suddenly the restaurant was at the mercy of a faddish clientele. Cliff Jagger or Mick Richard's PA, or whoever would book in a party of 12, then cancel at the last minute turning a potential profit to a financial loss in a second.
Andrew Payne would like to think restaurauts existed to serve reasonable food at decent prices. But in England what he actually sees is a bear- pit in which class battles are fought out.
"Food can be intimidating to people who don't understand it," he says. "You often find a conspiracy between the chef and the customers, who are all pretending to like the duck breast on a bed of raspberries and not admit they hate it."
He deplores the peculiarly English habit of creating elitist groups for no good reason. "Restaurants are hijacked by people with a liking for clubs."
Most miserable of all, he says, are country restaurants. "You'll find the local bourgeoisie patting itself on the back because it belongs to an exclusive eating club. They can pronounce 'aioli'. But what you've actually got is dreadful, over-furnished dining rooms and nouvelle cuisine food, badly done. In the country people don't complain, they think it is poncey."
It is to redress this balance that Andrew Payne first created Crabbe's Utopian country restaurant - somewhere in the Thames Valley - the very "pie in the sky". It's a place that draws on the best of seasonal, local produce. Cook Henry Crabbe reflects Andrew Payne's views, rejecting menu- speak such as "a symphony of seafood and freshly-picked autumn leaves". Food is never described as "fayre" and there are no individual portions of milk or butter provided "for your convenience".
His menu is in the best of Modern British good taste, thanks to Lindsey Bareham. Simple British foods done well abound - bubble and squeak, toad- in-the-hole and cullen skink (the Scottish soup with smoked haddock). Fish and chips are OK, as long as they are well cooked. So are mushy peas, but they will probably be minted.
Crabbe has a patriotic nostalgia for the best of British, but he is no little Englander. The steak and kidney pie which is his signature dish has a pastry recipe inspired by the cook at the nearby Chinese restaurant.
Here is Crabbe's classic pie, as interpreted by Lindsey Bareham the second recipe is a quick supper dish made with Dijon mustard, in homage to tonight's episode, "Cutting the Mustard".
STEAK AND KIDNEY PIE WITH GUINNESS
900g/2lb chuck steak, trimmed of fat and cut into 3.5cm/1.2in pieces
350g/12oz ox kidney, cored and chopped
4 tablespoons beef dripping or lard
3 tablespoons flour, liberally seasoned with salt and freshly-milled black pepper
400ml/34 pint beef stock or water
225g/8oz self-raising flour
110g/4oz shredded suet or lard
salt and freshly-milled black pepper
1 egg yolk mixed mixed with a splash of milk
Place the steak and kidney in a bowl with the Guinness and herbs. Cover and leave to marinate for at least four hours, preferably overnight. Drain the meat, reserving the marinade. Toss the meat in the seasoned flour. Heat one tablespoon of the dripping or lard in a large heavy pan and gently fry the onions for five minutes. Remove the onions to a plate, add more of the dripping to the pan and fry the floured meat in batches until it is browned on all sides. Return the onions, the rest of the meat and any remaining flour to the pan. Stir thoroughly, then add the mushrooms, marinade and stock or water. Bring slowly to a simmer, stirring, then cover the pan and cook gently for one-and-a-half hours. Taste the gravy, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and remove the herbs. Transfer to a deep pie dish, place a pie funnel in the middle and leave to cool.
To make the pastry, sift the flour into a bowl, sprinkle in the suet or add the lard, season, and mix lightly with your hands. Sprinkle in two tablespoons of cold water, adding more as you mix with a knife. As it begins to clump together, use you hands to work it into a smooth, elastic dough. Leave to rest for five minutes then roll out the pastry slightly thicker than normal. Cut a 2cm (1in) strip and lay it round the inside edge of the pie dish. Dampen it with water then put the pastry lid in place. Trim and crimp the edge, knocking it back with the flat blade of a knife so that the actual edge looks as deep as possible. Make a small steam-hole in the centre and cut some leaves from the pastry trimmings to decorate the top. Paint the pie lid with the glaze. Bake in an oven pre-heated to 400F/ 200C/Gas 6 for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 350F/ 180C/Gas 4 and cook for 30 minutes until the pastry is golden-brown.
LINDSEY BAREHAM'S DIJON CHICKEN
2 skinned chicken breasts
2 tablespoons smooth Dijon mustard
salt and freshly-milled black pepper
You will also need two sheets of greaseproof paper. Spread one out on a flat surface and lay out the chicken breasts with plenty of space between and around them. Cover with the second piece of paper and gently bash the meat until flattened and about half as big again. Smear one side of each escalope with mustard then season.
Remove the crusts from the bread, tear into pieces and blitz in the food processor to make fine breadcrumbs. Place in a shallow bowl. Sieve three to four tablespoons of flour into another bowl and whisk the egg in a third bowl. Dip the escalope in the flour, shaking off any excess, then in the egg and finally, in the breadcrumbs.
Five minutes before you're ready to eat, heat together the butter and cooking oil over a medium flame. When good and hot, slip in the escalopes. Cook without moving for about two minutes then flip over and cook the other side both sides should be crusted and golden. If not cook for a minute or so more. Serve with lemon wedges. !
Chicken and bacon terrine, green tomato chutney
Smoked eel fillets, horseradish sauce
Steak and kidney pie, mashed potatoes, buttered cabbage
Smoked haddock omelette, new potatoes, spinach
Roast chicken, bread sauce, roast potatoes, runner beans
Vegetable pot-au-feu, steamed rice, tomato relish
Stilton or farmhouse Cheddar, celery hearts and pickled onions
Coffee or tea, rum and brandy truffles
A Year In Cheese? Yes please!
I have to admit, when I think of cheese I don’t tend to consider it as a seasonal product in the same way as fruit and vegetables. It turns out that just like many other tasty foodstuffs, eating cheese with the seasons is the best way to enjoy it.
Cheese, particularly goat’s cheese, is one of the reasons I know I could never be vegan. I was therefore delighted to receive a copy of ‘A Year In Cheese: A Seasonal Cheese Cookbook’ to give me tips on eating the right cheese at different times of the year. For example, fresh cheeses such as Brillat-Savarin are better in the spring time when goats, sheep and cows have the chance to feast on fresh grass. This affects the flavour of their milk and therefore the cheese. As we’re now in winter, it’s time to turn to more bold flavours such as Camembert, Stilton and aged Comté. So that’s my Christmas cheeseboard sorted!
‘A Year In Cheese’ is full of atmospheric, cheese-filled photography and simple cheesy recipes. It has been compiled by Alex and Léo Guarneri of Androuet in Spitalfields Market, London. The Guarneri brothers started Androuet as a stall selling top quality seasonal cheese, before then moving into a shop and restaurant (still in Spitalfields). The recipes grouped by the seasons are written by Alessandro Grano, previously Androuet’s head chef and now at La Fromagerie. Between them, these men really know their cheese.
Cheese is incorporated into dishes a variety of ways, from a rarebit using Montgomery Cheddar with the unusual inclusion of cauliflower, through to a hearty rack of venison with Cornish Blue sauce. There are also plenty of vegetarian options, including roast beetroot, goat’s curd and pine kernel salad, or perhaps the autumnal dish of roast butternut squash with vintage Gouda. On the more decadent side are chocolate fondants with a Blu di Bufala heart (a buttery cheese made from blue water buffalo’s milk).
The recipes are straightforward and easy to follow, with lots of flavour enhancing herbs to accompany the cheese. There are helpful suggestions for substitutes if the suggested cheese isn’t available where you live. I cooked up the Portbello mushrooms stuffed with walnuts and Gorgonzola and it was perfectly balanced comfort food on a wintery evening. I’ve also earmarked the Stilton, port and pear terrine for Christmas. There are of course many French-influenced dishes with the requisite touches of cream and butter. These sit comfortably alongside some more experimental options, such as vintage Gouda ice cream with pumpkin and amaretti.
If you prefer to indulge in unadulterated cheese, here are some of the Guarneris’ tips for the perfect seasonal cheeseboard:
– for an after-dinner cheeseboard allow about 80g cheese per person increase this to 120g if you’re serving cheese, charcuterie and nibbles as a meal
– keep cheese in its original packaging and take it out of the fridge 30 minutes before serving
– odd numbers of cheese look best on a board – choose 3, 5 or 7 types
– ideally include soft, hard and a blue cheese (unless you really don’t like blue cheese if so, just leave it out!)
– include different milk types – cow, sheep’s and goat’s
– the best fruits to serve with cheese are pears or grapes
Cheeses to choose by season:
Spring – goat’s curd, Brousse, Camembert, Chabichou, Brillat-Savarin, Ossau-Iraty, Westcombe Cheddar
Summer – Ricotta, Mozzarella, Feta, Gruyère, Fourme d’Ambert, Red Leicester, Ogleshield, Barkham Blue, Manchego
Autumn – Lincolnshire Poacher, West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, Montgomery Cheddar, Roquefort, Emmental, Gruyère, Gouda, Brie de Meaux, Raclette
Winter – Beaufort, Aarewasser, Vacherin, Comté, Camembert, Gruyère Etivas, Aged Gouda, Castelmagno, Stilton, Bleu des Causses, Gorgonzola, Cornish Blue
If you want to go the whole hog (or should that be cow?), there’s also the below recipe for making fresh cheese. Unlike matured cheeses which are stored for long periods to let the flavours develop, this is a simple recipe using milk, vinegar and salt, plus some flavourings of your choice. It’s a great way for a cheese-novice to dip their toes in the world of cheese making. Add a combination of flavourings so that it’s just to your taste.
Homemade Fresh Cheese / Photograph by Kim Lightbody
Homemade Fresh Cheese
3 litres full-fat milk
90ml white wine vinegar
½ tsp Maldon salt
Optional flavourings (adjust according to taste)
Mixture of chopped parsley, mint, rosemary and thyme
Chopped thyme with grated zest of lemon
Chopped sundried tomatoes with chopped black olives
Red chilli flakes
Put the milk in a large pan over a low heat and heat slowly until it reaches 95°C (203°F), checking with a cooking thermometer.
Immediately remove from the heat, pour over the vinegar, stir and leave for 10–15 minutes until a curd floats to the surface and the whey that remains is clear.
Meanwhile, line a colander with a clean tea towel. Use a sieve to remove the curd then place it in the lined colander. Sprinkle with salt. If you wish, sprinkle with the flavouring of your choice – mixed herbs, chopped thyme with lemon zest, chopped sundried tomatoes with chopped black olives, or red chilli flakes. Stir very gently to combine.
Transfer the curd to a cheese mould or small sieve. Refrigerate in an airtight container for 3–5 days. Serve as an antipasto or crumbled into a salad.
Recipe extracted from ‘A Year in Cheese’ by Alex and Leo Guarneri, recipes by Alessandro Grano. Published by Frances Lincoln (£20).
This month’s prize is a copy of ‘A Year In Cheese’. Simply subscribe to Food At Heart emails to be in the running to win.
Photograph by Kim Lightbody
SUPPORT THE LOCAL SUPPLIER
We all know we should be supporting the small, local farmer - but how many of us actually take heed of the cry? Conscientious farmers who consider the environment and offer professional service are an inspiration. Their enthusiasm and desire to improve South African produce are motivating. Over the years I have been fortunate to meet many wonderful people in the hospitality industry including my suppliers whose personalities and moving stories thrill me.
I challenge you to get to know the area in which you live. With an enquiring mind visit the farms listen to foodie conversations shop at the farmers' market and local farm stalls. Taste, ask questions, and get to the root of ingredients. Meet the baker, cheesemaker and farmer behind the various products you use, and ask to see the methods adopted. This ensures an understanding of the process and a different eating experience. You will be able to retell interesting stories to guests, friends and family over the next meal. My regular outings to visit suppliers are exhilarating and educational. Getting out of the kitchen, pulling on my gumboots, and heading across KwaZulu-Natal's Midlands with pen and paper in hand is my kind of day out with the team.
Arriving at Chrissie's Farmhouse in Eston, just outside of Richmond, is overwhelming in every aspect. Her home is a cheese museum filled with items such as an 1820's Gouda press that is still in working order, over 50 cheese Victorian or Art Deco dishes and large Stilton bells. Chrissie has been manufacturing boutique cheeses on her farm with her herd of Ayrshire cows for over 25 years, and produces Cheddar-based cheese, Stilton in season and some soft varieties of Brie. Her determination is inspirational. Her produce is world class, winning silver in the London Cheese Awards. The heads of cheese, which she refers to as landmines, are electric on the palate and showcase her eccentric personality. Her enthusiasm is contagious and I appreciate her cheese more because I know Chrissie the person, her background and her cheese-making processes.
Sue's farm, Wayfarer Trout, is in the heart of the Midlands and, having the utmost respect for my car, I take a very slow drive along gravel roads to her farm. At the end of the drive, one is greeted by a lush, picture-perfect haven with a striking reed-and-lily-filled dam and the Brookland's pristine waters run through the property. It's clear why these trout look and taste so good. In this environment and with water temperatures that remain below 24°C, conditions are ideal. Wayfarer Trouts are perfecty filleted, pin-boned and tastefully presented and visiting this farm has raised my level of appreciation for the product. I enjoy cooking for guests who know about food and wine so it stands to reason that suppliers must be grateful to be supplying chefs who appreciate the effort spent on developing perfect produce.
Dean and Serene, mother and son, are the proud owners of Dargle Ducks in Dargle. Going to their farm is an education and puts most farms to shame. The simplicity, and their having accomplished going back to what really matters, is motivating. They call their ducks 'open range' because they are free to roam day and night. The feed, which includes sunflowers, mealies, cabbages, cauliflowers, broccoli, spinach, wheat, rye grass, beans and kikuya is grown specifically for the ducks. The 'good life' is seen in every plump duck breast that is deboned in our kitchen. The proportions of fat to meat are exceptional the size and tenderness notable.
Search for the best possible ingredients your money can buy, be it for home or restaurant cooking. I always say I'll never serve a guest something that I would not serve my parents - the two people I never want to disappoint.
It is a fact that the more interest we take in the products we use, the better quality ingredients we will have to work with. I suggest we focus on promoting the local suppliers in our rich and resourceful country. I would like to see more locally-driven menus highlighting small and large local suppliers. It's an exciting time for us as lovers of food. If we stand together we can carve the direction of food by educating the public.
Local dining just got more rewarding. Earn 3X points on dine-in, delivery or takeout at participating hotel restaurants through June 15, 2021 when you’re not staying the night. Bring a good appetite.
MAIN COURSE - GRILL
1 Whole Dover Sole
2 21 Days Dry Aged Rose County Beef Tenderloin
3 Corn Fed Free Range Baby Chicken
4 Grilled Portobello V
Isle Of Avalon Cheese, Crispy Shallots
5 Baked Cheesecake
6 Rhubarb “bomb” Baked Alaska V
7 Valrhona Chocolate V
Cherry Ganache, Champagne Sorbet
8 Clementine Baked Custard V
Milk Chocolate, Kumquats, Star Anise
9 Montagu’s Sticky Date Pudding V
Vanilla Ice Cream And Toffee Sauce
10 Baileys Fondue (great For Sharing) V
Selection Of Seasonal Fruits
11 The Montagu Kitchen Signature Apple Pie V
Served With A Selection Of Condiments Including Fresh Cream And Ice-cream
12 Daily Home Baked Cake
Served With A Selection Of Condiments Including Fresh Cream And Ice-cream
13 The Lavender V
William Chase Gin, Lavender
14 The Clementine V
Jw Black Label, Drambuie, Green Chatreuse, Clementine
15 The Fig V
16 The Pear & Ginger V
William Chase Potato Vodka, Pear, Ginger, Chapel Down Brut
STARTERS / APPETIZERS
17 Golden Beetroot Tart
Duxelle, Radish, Celeriac (*add Grated Fresh Truffle)
18 Courgette Royal
Dressed Crab, Candied Lemon, Coriander
19 Balik Smoked Salmon
Watercress Emulsion, Horseradish, Trout Roe
20 Steak Tartare
Quail Egg, Truffle Mayo, Caper Berries, Gherkins, Rosemary Croutons
21 Orkney Scallops
Hand Dived, Fennel, Black Quinoa, Apple
22 Yukon Kent Mashed Potatoes V
23 Tender Stem Broccoli V
24 British Farmhouse Cheeses
Canterbury Cobble, Isle Of Avalon, Golden Cross Goat’s Cheese, Kentish Blue Cheese - Served With Salty Crackers And The Montagu Kitchen Chutney
25 Chartwell Salad V
Beetroots, Kent Apples, Goat’s Cheese, Almonds, Rocket Leaves
26 Roasted Celeriac V
Seasonal Mushrooms, Braised Pearl Barley, Celeriac Puree, Vegetarian Jus
27 Canterbury Risotto V
Canterbury Cobble Cheese, Butternut Squash, Sage
28 Dingley Dell Pork Belly
Pork Loin, Roasted Carrots, Apples, Pork Jus
29 North Atlantic Halibut
Josper Charred Hispi Cabbage, Mussel Foam, Dill Oil
30 Romney Marsh Lamb
Cannon, Lamb Shoulder Croquette, Jerusalem Artichokes, Crosnes, Jus
31 Stone Bass
Swiss Chard, Sweet Potatoes, Spelt, Cider Creamy Sauce
32 Scottish Smoked Salmon Toast
Norfolk Bread, Horseradish-herb Cream Cheese, Cucumber, Shallots, Dill
33 21 Days Dry Aged Striploin
Yorkshire Pudding, Roasted Yukon Mashed Potatoes And Honey Glazed Root Vegetables, Red Wine Jus
34 Roasted Rochester Pork Belly
Apple Sauce, Roasted Heritage Carrots, Glazed Kent Apple And Pork Jus
35 Charcoal Grilled Portobello Mushroom
Isle Of Avalon Cheese, Crispy Shallots
36 Pan Seared Catch Of The Day
Sautéed Swiss Chard, Roasted Sweet Potato And Apple Cider Sauce
STARTERS / APPETIZERS
Kent Egg Florentine, Egg Benedict And Egg Lobster & Crab Fresh From The Kitchen (to Be Served A La Minute On The Table)
38 Soup V
39 Salad V
Quinoa, Butternut Squash And Pomegranate Salad
Coronation Chicken Rustic Salad
41 Salad V
Puy Lentil, Roasted Artichoke And Spicy Almonds Salad
42 Salad V
Goat’s Cheese And Beetroot Salad - Raspberry Dressing
Smoked Duck, Figs And Pears Salad
44 Salad V
The Montagu Kitchen Waldorf Salad - Green Apple, Celeriac, Cobnuts, Low Fat Yoghurt
45 Salad V
Kentish Grilled Pear And Stilton Salad
Smoked Salmon And Smoked Halibut - Lemon Wedges, Caper Berries, Sour Cream And Chives
47 Quiche V
Black Truffle And Wild Mushroom Quiche
48 Terrine V
Ham Hock Terrine - Cranberry And Walnut
Chicken And Pistachio Terrine
50 Whitstable Oysters
Charcoal Baked With Herb Crust
51 Poached Prawns
Cocktail Sauce And Lemon Wedges
52 Leaves V
Mix Leaves, Rocket, Lamb’s Lettuce, Radicchio
53 Dressings V
Lemon Dressing, Lavender Dressing, Balsamic-pommery Grain Mustard Dressing
Bacon, Diced Chicken, Cherry Tomato, Cucumber, Beetroot Wedges, Radish, Lord Of The Hundreeds Cheese, Fennel
Turkey Breast, Salami, Dingley Dell Honey Smoked Ham, Chorizo And Cured Pork Ham, Bresaola
56 Farmhouse British Cheeses & Homemade Chutneys
Red Leicester, Golden Cross Goat Cheese, Kentish Blue, Keen’s Cheddar, Canterbury Cobble, Ashmore Farmhouse, Applewood Cheddar, Winterdale Cheese, Sussex Brie. - Blackcurrant Chutney And Red Onion Marmelade, Dried Apricots, Dried And Fresh Figs, Vanilla Kent Honey, Pumpkin Seeds, Sunflower Seeds, Grapes, Homemade Lavish, Assorted Bread
Rosemary Blue Cheese Wafers
We had some wonderful blue cheeses while in France so I decided this would be a nice little cracker to make upon coming home.
A friend made these from Ina Garten’s Paris cookbook and I loved them at first bite. Ina used Stilton in her recipe and I had thought about using a Roquefort cheese since that is from France. BUT, at our store they only carried one brand of Roquefort at $32.00 a pound. Yikes, I was not about to spend that much on a recipe I was trying out for the camera guy coming to my house that day.
So I bought another French blue cheese, D’Auvergne, which was around $16/lb and I only needed 8 ounces. This cheese is made in France and from cow’s milk which has a creamier taste than Roquefort which is made with ewe’s milk. I found this interesting — Blue d’Auvergne was created in 1854 by a producer of Roquefort. After noticing fungus on his bread, he tried to mix the same fungus with the cheese. A littler later, the farmer pierced the cheese so that the air could enter into it and help to develop the blue mould. These days the cheese is inoculated with Penicillin Roquefort. This cheese is best served at room temperature and is a perfect blue for salad dressings.
For anyone who does not know the different types of blue cheese, here’s a quick run down and I may have forgotten a few.
Roquefort is blue cheese from France
Stilton is blue cheese from England
Cabrales comes from Spain and is a very pungent blue cheese.
Cambozola is one of my favorites. this cheese is German and they combine camembert with blue gorgonzola.
Bavarian is a mild and creamy German blue cheese.
Then you have the Irish bleu, the Danish blue, the Maytag blue which is American, and the list goes on and on.
So, when it comes to blue cheese, just choose what your pocketbook will allow.
I decided to add some rosemary to the recipe because I love the flavor with the blue cheese.
Finely chopped rosemary from my herb garden.
The butter and blue cheese gets creamed.
After you have added the flour and rosemary, divide this into two balls.
Brush egg wash over the rolls.
Roll in the chopped walnuts and then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
Slice 1/4″ thick and put on Silpat or parchment lined cookie sheets.
The Stump, near Cirencester, Gloucestershire
What’s it like?
This roadside inn on Roman road the Fosse Way has been licensed since at least 1772. It was formerly called the Hare and Hounds and was looking a little tired before it reopened as the Stump – the local nickname for the pub – in August. Unlike many Cotswold inns, it hasn’t been gutted and turned into a characterless, overpriced restaurant, but has been restored as a proper pub that happens to do great food. It has three open fires, exposed beams, cosy nooks, friendly staff – and great beer: from the Tap Brewery up the road and the DEYA Brewing Company in Cheltenham. It also serves wine from £18 a bottle and barrel-aged negronis for £8. Encouragingly, the bar area is for drinkers, and those playing pool, rather than given over to diners.
There are 10 bedrooms, in an adjoining building. The master suite features a rolltop bath in the bedroom and a wetroom with a walk-in shower and Bramley products. Its style is spare but appealing: mostly white with one accent wall hooks rather than a wardrobe a colourful still life. The other rooms are similar in style but on a smaller scale (and minus the bath).
What about breakfast and dinner?
The Stump is run by Baz and Fred, two best mates in their late 20s, who started providing pizzas at events, and now have a permanent spot in Flat Iron Square, a street-food hub near London Bridge. The Stump is their first pub and here they have branched out to include pasta but otherwise kept things simple: four starters (each around £5), seven pizzas and four pastas (from £8), and four desserts (£2-£5).
The quality of ingredients and the standard of cooking are outstanding. We loved it all: the starters of wild mushroom croquettes and fig and burrata salad. The mains of marinara pizza (anchovies, capers, oregano) and ragu pappardelle, made with slow-braised beef shin. An irresistible wodge of boozy tiramisu. In fact, we loved it so much that we changed our plans and ate there the next night, too. And that experience included sea bass cooked in the wood-fired oven, from the short specials board, and a decadent cheesy garlic pizza bread with lardo and truffle aioli (£6). Yes, cheesy bread topped with pig fat, dipped in more fat. Heaven.
Breakfast is a restrained affair of sourdough toast with jam, eggs and/or bacon. After an overindulgent dinner, it is more than enough. For those who can’t face more carbs, there is a lighter option of homemade granola with berries and yoghurt.
What’s on the doorstep?
Cirencester, the biggest town in the Cotswolds, is 10 minutes away by car or infrequent bus. We went to its Corinium Museum, which has one of the best collections of Roman artefacts in the country. We also watched glassblowers in action at the New Brewery Arts centre visited the cathedral-like St John the Baptist church and walked in the Abbey Grounds, where an Augustinian monastery once stood. Chedworth Roman Villa is within walking distance of the Stump, and pretty Cotswolds villages, such as Bourton-on-the-Water, are a short drive away.
From £95 for a small double, £99 for a double, £109 for a twin or £119 for the suite, all B&B.
Value for money?
By Cotswolds standards, the accommodation is good-value and the food is an absolute steal.
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365 Sydney Road
Tram #19 - Stop 22
Train (Upfield line) Brunswick Station
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Harper and Blohm Cheese shop practices responsible service of alcohol. Under the Liquor Control Reform Act 1998 it is an offence to supply alcohol to a person under the age of 18 years (penalty exceeds $17,000), for a person under the age of 18 years to purchase or receive liquor (penalty exceeds $700). Liquor licence number 36158568